Sus Boy's: The Poised Threat to Conventional Manhood
Hyper-masculinity is a leading topic in menswear, mens lifestyle and even in sports. Russell Westbrook and Cam Newton have made a name for themselves off of the court with consistently precarious looks. Recently, Anthony Davis of the New Orleans Pelicans has teamed up with Saks Fifth Avenue to launch a Fall 2016 “athleisure” capsule collection with leveled, slim silhouettes and a minimal color palette. Aside from sportswear fashion mavens, guys like Jaden Smith who assigned himself the duty of blending expressive gender lines from the patriarch outward; particularly encouraging the youth to be comfortable with taking an interest in typically feminine or masculine garments. His Louis Vuitton campaign earlier this year precipitated a question about menswear that has been covert amongst the few kilt-wearing American men; how can menswear evolve outside of womenswear? It seems that too often innovation in menswear is attributed to womenswear inspirations used every season. From skirts to cropped sweaters and sequins, menswear is becoming more unisex than ever before. International contemporary fashion brands like Hood By Air and Vetements are merging their mens and women collections into one single show or presentation which offers gender fluid tastemakers the luxury of mixing the feminine with the masculine, aesthetically.
Apparently, the menswear luxury fashion market is distancing itself from fledging grounds into more established and home-grown territories. Fashion tribes such as the ‘health goth’ — bleached by Raf Simmons and Rick Owens — has helped establish the commitment of luxury menswear consumers along with developing a loyal audience of appreciators.
Justin O’Shea, former buyer for the luxury womenswear e-commerce site Mytheresa, has recently been named and removed as creative director of menswear brand Brioni. Will Welch of GQ Style writes, “He drinks hard, and likes rock ‘n’ roll, yet has no compunction about knowledgeably and enthusiastically discussing pencil skirts or silk shirts”, illustrating a new sector of the menswear market. The idea that men can be dually interested in stereotypical "man" things (i.e sports and burgers) and their social opposites (i.e fashion and salad) is generally taboo. The cis-heterosexual man cannot enjoy both luxury womenswear and women themselves because society says so, but there is an innovative sector of manhood on the horizon; a chance for community amongst men with unconventional interests. Those who I like to call “Sus Boy’s”, in other words, men who are treading waters socially designated for women whether it’s in luxury fashion, music taste, or just being flamboyant and unapologetically expressive aside from sexual orientation. Although his interests do not have to spring from what society says is fit for women, he challenges masculinity professionally and socially almost effortlessly.
The quintessential Sus Boy: defines his own masculinity rooted in his personal interests, navigates manhood unconventionally and with no apprehension. He is amongst many but distinguishes himself fully tailored in his own glory along with supplemental, self-defining, and enriching values. This man has been smeared in society with the thankfully diluted “metrosexual” and he is ready to reintroduce and reestablish himself in the world.
Now, he’s not simply an “art guy” like most assume, he’s studied multiple disciplines from art to medicine, but he allows his random, yet appropriate, interests distinguish him independent of his profession. The only difference between the sus boy and the rest of the contemporary men is that his position does not define him. His environment does not define him. His family nor friends define him. His sexual orientation does not define him. His history—for damn sure—does not define him. It’s rather his passion(s), hobbies, and multiple muses that help curate his world. The imaginative nature of him helps him live a very specific life on his own terms without the sensitivity of society's description of him.
You may not know him, but you know of him. He may not exist in your world, but he definitely exists and the world is creating more space for him. As a societal bridge between hyper-masculinity and androgyny, you will see him today more often than not.
(Why the term "Sus Boy"? Because it's uncomfortably suitable)